For reference, the old connection diagram

will still be up. The new diagram

Steps to fix the LFO Switch:

1. First make sure you have SPDT switch (Single Pole Double Throw, which means there are three pins, and each switch position either connects the middle pin to the top or the bottom pin). We’ll send you one if you don’t (via slow mail).

2. Disconnect wires already going to the switch.
3. Connect the top pin of the switch to pin 1 of Pot 6 (LFO Depth).
4. Connect the middle pin of the switch to the resistor R5 and the LFO Out Jack.
5. Connect the bottom pin of the switch to CV1 input jack and the R10 pot, pin 2.

Steps to fix the volume (to get it to go all the way to “off” ):

1. Reverse the wires going to pin 2&3 of the Volume pot (R9).
2. Add another wire going to ground from pin 1 of the Volume pot.

Does the volume fix mean you don’t need R1? It’s not featured on the latest version of the schematic…

That’s correct, R1 (the 4.7k resistor) is not needed anymore.

Cool, thanks! I was looking through the wiring and the description of the connections around the LFO switch doesn’t match what’s on the circuit diagram. Is the wiring scheme the thing to follow?

Yes, follow the wiring diagram… but what’s different from the circuit diagram now? They should both be up to date.

thanks!

I think that in the circuit diagram, the LFO Out and CV1 labels are swapped?