Kits: MIDIATOR
--- building instructions (pcb version 1.04 and up)---
See v1 instructions if your pcb is 1.03 or lower.
Two things to watch out for: the LCD contrast is adjustable via the trim-pot, and will probably need adjusting to see anything when power is first applied. Also, make sure to run the PS2 extension wire through the case BEFORE soldering...
- U3: PIC18F4550
- U3: 40 pin socket
- U1: 3.3V regulator
- U4: 5V regulator
- C1: 100uF cap (larger one)
- C3,C4: 22pF ceramic caps
- C2,C6,C7,C8,C9: .1uF ceramic caps
- C5: 10uF electrolytic cap
- R5: 10k 1/4W resistor
- R3,R4,R6: 390 Ohm resistor
- R2,R1: 200 ohm resistor
- RV1: 10k trim pot for LCD brightness
- R7: 1k resistor
- J1: barrel jack
- J2: female MIDI connector
- P2: 6 pin header for PICKIT
- P4: 6 pin header for LCD pins 1-6
- P1: 4 pin header for LCD pins 11-14
- X1: 8MHz crystal
- D3: Red LED (installs on back, do last)
- D2: Green LED (installs on back, do last)
- D1: Yellow LED (installs on back, do last)
- LCD panel
- enclosure
- (4) 4-40, 1/4 inch screws
- (4) #6 nuts as spacers between PCB and top
- (4) 4-40 nuts
- (3) ferrite beads to quell noise on Play Station Controller line
- (1) Controller extension cable
- Soldering Iron and Solder: A 15 Watt iron will may get the job done, but it'll be easier with a 25 or 35 Watt
iron. Don't lose sleep purchasing your first iron; any cheap
RadioShack one will do. We like small chisel or screw
driver shaped tips (say 1/16th of an inch wide), but personal preference plays a big role. The goal is to use a tip
that's about the same size as the pad you're soldering. This way you get you get as much surface area contact as
possible (better for heat transfer) but are still small enough to avoid touching neighboring pads.
For solder, we recommend .02 or .031" diameter, rosin cored flux, tin-lead solder, either 63/37 or 60/40, whatever's cheaper. See our soldering guide for explanations. Lead-free solder is a little bit harder to use since it "wets" metal somewhat slower and has a slighty higher melting point. If your kit has sat on the shelf for a while (a year), some steel wool or a pink eraser is useful to remove oxidation from the components and board before starting.
- Needle Nose Pliers: Used to clinch or bend component leads.
- Helping Hands: Two aligator clips on a heavy base that are useful for holding wires while you solder them.
- Flush Cutters: Used to trim leads close ("flush") to the board.
- Solder Sucker or Solder Wick: Used to remove solder.
- Clamp: A table top will be fine for most of the job, but a clamp can be handy, especially when removing components.
- Multimeter: To check your work.
- Wire Strippers:
- Screwdriver: Either phillips or regular will do for putting together the case.
Use the above parts list to match components to the pcb.
Also, install the 6 pin and 4 pin header as shown to the LCD.
Leave about 3/32 space between the LEDs and the pcb.
You can stick a piece of padded, double-sided tape in between the LCD and pcb, although it should be sturdy enough without this.
Push a few inches through and tie a knot for strain relief.
Install 2 ferrite beads on the blue wire, and 1 on the black. Cut off the green, white and grey colors as they aren't needed. Cover with tape.
- Pin 1: N/C (not connected)
- Pin 2: N/C (not connected)
- Pin 3: Yellow (attention)
- Pin 4: Blue (clock)
- Pin 5: Brown (data: Controller -> MIDIATOR)
- Pin 6: Red (power, 3.3V)
- Pin 7: Black (ground)
- Pin 8: Orange (command: MIDIATOR -> Controller)
The regulators need to be bent over slightly so they don't hit the bottom of the case when it's closed.
Use the #6 nuts as spacers between the top and pcb. You may have to bend the LEDs slightly to get everything in place.
The LCD will be blank unless you turn the trim pot.
You'll need to get the code from the main midiator page, download mplab and the c18 compiler from microchip. Plug in the PICKIT so that it's pin1 is towards the center of the board.